A Taste of History: Unearthing the Stories Behind France’s Iconic Foods

If there’s one thing that the French are renowned for, it’s their cuisine. A fragrant medley of flavor, texture, and history, French food is as much a cultural experience as it is a culinary one. For those who have ever wondered how some of these classic dishes got their intriguing names, you’re in for a treat! In honor of Bastille Day, let’s delve into the rich, buttery, and occasionally surprising stories behind some of France’s most famous dishes, courtesy of the Research team at MyHeritage.

An ‘accidental’ delight: Tarte Tatin

First on our plate is the delightful Tarte Tatin. This delectable upside-down caramelized apple tart owes its existence to the Tatin sisters, Caroline and Stéphanie.

Tarte tatin

Tarte Tatin, an upside-down caramelized apple tart, was created by the Tatin sisters, Caroline and Stéphanie, in 19th-century France. They ran Hotel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, where, during a busy hunting season, Stéphanie allegedly salvaged an overcooked apple pie by placing the pastry base on top and flipping it upside down.

A colorized photo of Hotel Tatin, run by the Tatin sisters (photo taken in the early 2000s, roughly a century after their ownership of the hotel)

This ‘accidental creation’ version of the story is debated, but the dish became a cherished part of French cuisine. The tart was popularized by French chef Curnonsky in the 20th century, who named it after the sisters, and its fame increased when it was added to the menu of the Parisian restaurant Maxim’s.

We can see a snapshot of the Tatin sisters’ lives in the 1906 French Census on MyHeritage. Fanny is recorded as the head of the household, with both her and Caroline listed as innkeepers – a testament to their entrepreneurial spirit. It wasn’t just the sisters living there; other family members were present too. Fanny’s daughter-in-law, Berthe, and her namesake granddaughter, Caroline, born in 1899, are listed among the household members.

Tatin sisters in the 1906 France Census on MyHeritage

A dessert fit for the opera: Peach Melba

Bowl of Peach Melba: vanilla ice cream with peaches and raspberry sauce

Peach Melba was created by one of the most celebrated French chefs, Auguste Escoffier in homage to Australian opera singer Nellie Melba.

In 1892, the Duke of Orleans decided to throw a dinner party in Melba’s honor, after being deeply moved by her performance in Wagner’s opera Lohengrin at Covent Garden. Escoffier was the chef at the Savoy Hotel, where the dinner was held. His creation, originally called “Pêche au Cygne” or “Peach with a Swan,” included peaches, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry sauce, served in a swan-shaped ice sculpture, symbolic of Melba’s “Swan Knight” character. He later refined the dish and renamed it “Peach Melba” in honor of the opera singer.

This article in La Semaine à Paris, dated March 6, 1931 describes the dessert’s origins, “Nellie Melba, the great singer who has just died in Australia, is already almost forgotten by the new generation. Her name, however, still resounds in current conversations; but it’s because of the famous dessert that bears it.”

Escoffier also describes the downside of great recipes being altered, claiming “the Peche Melba, he says, consists solely of peaches with tender and white ripe flesh, ripe, fine vanilla ice cream and sweetened raspberry puree. Any deviation from this rule harms the finesse of the delicate dessert.”

Newspaper article from La Semaine à Paris, March 6, 1931, found on MyHeritage

Escoffier died a true culinary hero, cooking for some great legends, and ultimately becoming a legend himself. 

Newspaper article from Evening Star, Washington, DC, February 12, 1935, on MyHeritage

Flaming beginnings: Crêpes Suzette

Crêpes Suzette

Crêpes Suzette, the classic French crepe in a citrus sauce, has a history dating back to the late 19th century. Legend has it that in 1896, 14-year-old Henri Charpentier, an apprentice at Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo, accidentally flambéed a sauce of sugar, tangerine, and liqueur while preparing crêpes for the Prince of Wales, future King Edward VII of England. The prince, taken with the delicious mistake, asked the dessert be named after his dining companion, Suzette Reichenberg.

Announcement of the death of Suzette Reichenberg from the MyHeritage newspaper collections

Charpentier, later becoming a renowned chef, recounted this in his autobiography, but still many others attribute the creation of crepes Suzette to Auguste Escoffier, under which Charpentier worked, and the recipe is also included in Escoffier’s Guide Culinaire.   

The foreign bread that became a staple: the baguette and croissant

Classic French breakfast including a baguette, some croissants, blackberry jam, coffee, and cheese

The Baguette and croissant, quintessential French baked goods, were introduced to France by Austrian August Zang. After moving to Paris in the 1830s, Zang founded “La Boulangerie Viennoise,” where he popularized Viennese baking techniques, paving the way for the modern baguette and croissant. These pastries, originally symbols of Austrian victory over the Turks, were adapted to French tastes and became part of France’s culinary identity, thanks largely to Zang’s influence.

August Zang. Photo enhanced and colorized by MyHeritage

The original Boulangerie Viennoise (Viennese bakery) at 92, rue de Richelieu in Paris in or around 1909

From fishermen’s stew to regional delicacy: bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish stew

Bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish stew, originated from the poor fishermen of Marseille, France, who used unsold fish to prepare this hearty dish. Over time, it evolved into a celebrated regional delicacy. Jean-Baptiste Reboul (1862-1926) a French chef from Marseille, documented and popularized the traditional recipe in his influential cookbook, “La Cuisinière Provençale”. Reboul’s recipe follows the traditional method of preparing Bouillabaisse and includes specific fish types (as conger eel, red rascasse, sea robin, and European hake) how to prepare the broth (using onions, tomatoes, and a bouquet garni), and how to serve the dish (with the broth and fish separately, accompanied by rouille and slices of bread).

In the marriage record below from the France, Church Marriages and Civil Marriages collection on MyHeritage, lists the occupation of groom Jean-Baptiste Reboul as cuisinier (chef):

Jean-Baptiste Reboul’s marriage record from the MyHeritage collections

Simple yet elegant: Pommes Anna and the éclair

Pommes Anna, a baked potato dish

Pommes Anna is a classic French dish of sliced, layered potatoes. The dish, named after Anna DesLions, a prominent 19th-century courtesan, was created during Napoleon III’s era by Chef Adolphe Dugléré at the Café Anglais, the leading Paris restaurant. Dugléré was a student of the famous chef Marie-Antoine Carême. The recipe calls for thinly sliced potatoes layered in a buttered dish, seasoned only with salt, and baked until they form a cake-like structure. It’s known for its crispy golden exterior and soft, buttery interior.

Anna Deslions, colorized and enhanced on MyHeritage

Éclairs

Eclair, a pastry named after the French word for “lightning,” perhaps for its glistening glaze or how quickly it’s eaten, was likely first created in the early 19th century at Paris’s Maison Frascati. The pastry chef was likely Marie-Antoine Carême, renowned for his “grande cuisine,” serving celebrities and royalty. Carême, known for his intricate pastries and sugar architecture, significantly contributed to French cuisine, including the eclair’s development. Initially, the eclair was called “pain à la duchesse” or “petite duchesse” until 1850.

A timeless sauce: béchamel

Béchamel sauce, a staple of French cooking

Béchamel sauce, a cornerstone of French cuisine, was introduced to France by Catherine de’ Medici in 1533. The sauce was later popularized in King Louis XIV’s court, attributed to Louis de Béchamel, a courtier, not a chef, as an effort to serve dried cod differently. Regardless of its inventor, the Béchamel sauce we know today, a roux and milk mixture, was codified by chef Marie-Antoine Carême in the 19th century. Its smooth texture and neutral flavor make it a versatile base for many dishes like lasagna and soufflés, solidifying its place as a culinary staple worldwide.

Food and memory: madeleines and chateaubriand

Madeleine cookies

Madeleines, small shell-shaped cakes, trace back to the 18th-century town of Commercy in the Lorraine region of France. They were reportedly created by a maid named Madeleine Paulmier, who served them at a feast held by the exiled King of Poland, Stanislas Leszczyński. Charmed by these cakes, the king named them after Madeleine. His daughter Maria, wife of Louis XV, later introduced them to the French court. Commercy embraced the Madeleine legacy, selling them in decorated boxes at the railway station in the 20th century. Their cultural significance was further enhanced by Marcel Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time,” where a madeleine triggers the narrator’s nostalgic memories.

Chateaubriand

Chateaubriand is named after François-René de Chateaubriand, a 19th-century French writer and diplomat. This dish involves a cut of beef from the tenderloin, traditionally roasted and served with Béarnaise sauce. While the connection between the writer and the dish isn’t fully clear, it’s believed that Chateaubriand’s personal chef, Montmireil, created it in his honor or as a tribute to his refined tastes.  

The photos and historical records found by the MyHeritage Research Team provide an invaluable glimpse into the daily lives of the creators of some of our favorite dishes, and they remind us that behind every great dish is a story of real people and their lived experiences.

So, as you sit down to your next French meal, remember the stories, the people, and the history baked into each delicious bite. Bon appétit!

Hungry for more information about your ancestors — from France or elsewhere? Start your family history journey on MyHeritage today.